Last updateWed, 20 Sep 2017 9am

Food & Wine

Bounty without burnout, bulge

Photo Monica Sircar/ Special To The Town Crier For a lighter Thanksgiving side dish, try a whole-grain farro salad, left, which has a pleasant, nutty flavor.

Each Thanksgiving meal revives the tension between abundance and overindulgence. Traditional Thanksgiving side dishes emphasize the heavy and rich, and the pursuit of sampling everything can leave taste buds fatigued and waistbands aching. Following a few simple principles, however, can help incorporate freshness and levity into the meal, allowing guests to savor the bounty without the burnout or bulge.

An easy general modification is to roast rather than cream. Mashed sweet or white potatoes, both Thanksgiving staples, typically rely on dairy fats for their rich taste and smooth texture. Roasting these vegetables, on the other hand, caramelizes their sugars, creating complex flavor and silky texture through technique alone. These vegetables, cubed and tossed lightly with olive oil and salt, can be roasted at 450 F for 25-30 minutes, until browned. Experiment with minor seasonings (a pinch of cayenne or chili pepper flakes, minced garlic, parsley or thyme) to create your own signature side.

Another simple switch is to choose whole, intact grains over refined grains. Stuffing a turkey with seasoned bread may be traditional, but it often results in a soggy mush of simple carbs that does more to harbor pathogens than to tantalize guests.

Consider nixing the stuffing and replacing it with an intact grain salad. Whole, intact grains, like wheat berries or Italian farro, add a pleasant, nutty flavor that easily combines with vegetables and seasonings. These grains have added nutritional benefits and hold up well as inevitable Thanksgiving leftovers.

Next, choose a few indulgences, and make sure all the ingredients get the attention they deserve. Thanksgiving is, after all, a celebration of food.

For example, the traditional green-bean casserole calls for drowning the beans in a cream soup topped with fried onions. Instead, replace the dish with a balanced side of green beans with sautéed shallots and bacon. The rich, smoky flavor of the bacon counterbalances the crisp, blanched green beans and sweet caramelized shallots. This satisfying side preserves the richness of the classic dish while amplifying the contribution of fresh ingredients.


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