Food & Wine
- Published on Tuesday, 11 January 2011 16:00
- Written by Eve Hill-Agnus - Special to the Town Crier
Mousse Truffée topped with aspic, pheasant terrine herbette and duck pâté with prunes and Armagnac can make an hors d’oeuvres tray sound like a tongue twister.
Pâtés may intimidate, but they’re really just pies that have lost their crusts. Their pastry-enveloped cousins even made their way into nursery rhymes. And while four-and-twenty blackbirds baked in a pie may sound unappetizing, a slice of Pâté de Campagne, attractively swaddled in bacon and studded with strips of ham, is nothing more than pig pie. And not hard to make, as it turns out.
Delicate, ethereal foie gras mousses are a bit tricky. But Pâté de Campagne, like the rural countryside campagne for which it’s named, is decidedly rustic. No precious duck livers here, just ground pork spruced up for flavor. With its rough-grain texture, it isn’t striving for refinement.
In medieval France, pigs were a vital – and ubiquitous – low-maintenance food source. Paris’ pig market (Marché aux Pourceaux) was a bustling square where more than 30,000 creatures changed hands every year in the heart of the city. If we were living in 14th-century Paris, this would be pig-killing season, and even the humblest holiday meal would include pork in the form of a flavorful soup, if not pâté. Our word bacon comes from the Old French for ham.
Pigs represented real danger in medieval daily life. They caused traffic accidents (notably the fatal unhorsing of King Louis le Gros’ eldest son), trampled goods and were rumored to enter homes and gobble babies on occasion. But pigs were a livelihood. Laws against letting pigs roam the streets were ineffective, judging by the number of times they were issued and reissued. Authorities resigned themselves to requiring that the creatures wear bells.
Nothing could stand between Parisians and their pigs. But when pigs’ rampages provoked legal action, owners made themselves scarce, and the pigs themselves bore the brunt of the (capital) punishment.
Though many pâtés are now named de Campagne, the original version comes from Brittany. The Breton recipe mixes the ground pork with sautéed onions, but shallots lend a more sophisticated, nuanced touch. Add port wine, a little cream and plenty of black pepper and herbs for a pâté that while humble in name and simple to make, is still fit for a king.
Pâté de Campagne
(Adapted from Bon Appétit magazine)
• 3/4 cup of port
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 1 cup minced shallots
• 2 1/2 pounds ground pork
• 12 ounces finely chopped uncured bacon, plus 16 slices to line baking pan
• 3 garlic cloves, pressed
• 2 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 2 1/2 teaspoons fresh thyme (or rosemary or sage, as preferred)
• 1 1/2 teaspoons allspice
• 1 1/2 teaspoons black pepper, freshly ground
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 1/3 cup cream
• 6-ounce piece of ham, cut into small strips
Boil port until reduced to 1/2 cup. Cool.
Sauté shallots in butter approximately 8 minutes until translucent.
Combine ground pork and bacon in large bowl. Mix in sautéed shallots, garlic and seasonings. Add eggs, cream and reduced alcohol.
Line 9x5x3-inch pan with bacon slices, letting ends hang over side. Press half ground-meat mixture into pan; Cover with ham strips. Top with remaining ground meat.
Fold ends of bacon slices over top. Cover lightly with foil. Place in 13x9x2-inch baking pan half-filled with boiling water. Bake at 350 F until center reaches 155 F (approximately 2 hours).
Once cool, refrigerate overnight with weights on top. To serve, invert onto platter and wipe clean.