Thu05072015

Food & Wine

New Los Altos shop brews milk tea for gourmands


Eliza Ridgeway/Town Crier
Teaspoon, the milk tea shop at Village Court in Los Altos, above, serves a range of bubble teas and snow ice drinks, right.

Los Altos made it onto the milk tea map this spring with the opening of Teaspoon, a new bubble tea and snow ice shop in Village Court Shopping Center at 4546 El Camino Real.

Its tea makers use an espresso machine to brew each cup individually, aiming to reduce bitter aftertaste and prioritize freshness. The method uses tea leaves ground like coffee beans so that the high temperature and pressure can extract tea flavor like a (long) shot of espresso.

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White wine: Sniffing out the unusual suspects for summer


ChriStine Moore/Special to the Town Crier Credit
White wines offer the perfect antidote to summer heat.

Some sounds make me long for white wine: the crack of a bat against its intended canvas-covered target, the swell and subsequent crash of an ocean wave repeated again and again and the wooshing of blossom-heavy branches swaying in the wind.

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Saison strain produces uniquely flavorful beers


Derek Wolfgram/Special to the Town Crier
The Bruery’s Saison Rue, a Belgian-style, bottle-conditioned ale, features a complex flavor with subtle but distinctive hints of earthy barnyard funk from the wild Brettanomyces yeast.

Saison is a refreshing beer style for warmer weather, with origins in the farmhouses of Belgium, where it was brewed during the winter and stored until summer as part of the provisions for farmworkers.

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Food Brief

Off the Grid, the Bay Area’s network of street-food markets, has scheduled its newest dinner market in Mountain View.

In partnership with the Computer History Museum, Off the Grid will bring 10 food trucks and live music to the museum 5-9 p.m. Fridays beginning this week.

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Gateway brews for people who (think that they) don't like craft beers


805 Blonde Ale

Spring is a time for new beginnings, which means it’s a great time to introduce a friend or family member to craft beer.

While beer lovers might enjoy super-hoppy double IPAs, viscous imperial stouts or mouth-puckering sours, such beers can intimidate newcomers to the world of full-flavored beer.

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Better bites with bitters


courtesy of Rita Held
Deviled eggs, a springtime tradition, take on a new twist with subtly flavorful Angostura bitters.

Los Altos resident Rita Held has spent her career in test kitchens and culinary consulting. She develops recipes for food companies in the Bay Area and nationwide, and blogs at getcookingsimply.com. This is her first column for the Town Crier – welcome, Rita!

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Lions, lambs and Cab Franc for March


Christine Moore/Special to the Town Crier
Oven fries, a slice of feta cheese and the bite of harissa mayonnaise make for a late-winter, early-spring dinner perfectly paired with Cabernet Franc.

I can’t help but wonder whether March will come in like a lion and go out like a lamb.

In an attempt to cover both bets, I’m planning ahead. My Lion’s Mane Ragout with Creamy Polenta kicked off the month. And I’ll close out March, and welcome spring, with Lamb Burgers with Harissa Mayonnaise and Rosemary Oven Fries.

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Dim sum, ramen, artisan pizza and more: Four new Los Altos restaurants open or soon to debut


Ramen on State Street

Cho’s Mandarin Dim Sum, formerly a standby for the budget-oriented on California Avenue in Palo Alto, recently opened at 209 First St., next door to Tin Pot Creamery.

The eatery – open for an extended lunch for now, 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily – offers pork buns, egg rolls, Shanghai pork balls, shrimp dumplings and pork and chicken potstickers. A serving of three nibbles costs $2.50-$3.25, a dish of six runs $5-$6.25.

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Pro and not-yet-pro brewers turn out for local beer events


Derek Wolfgram/Special to the Town Crier
Craft Artisan Ales’ Nebulous Imperial IPA is one of California’s latest small-scale craft ales to earn a place at local beer events.

While SF Beer Week is now behind us – and there won’t be another intense concentration of beer events until Silicon Valley Beer Week this summer – plenty of interesting events are still happening.

Steins Beer Garden in Mountain View is scheduled to celebrate its second anniversary March 28 with its first homebrew competition, which aims to become an annual event. With the theme “Spring into Beer,” the contest has official sanction from the Beer Judge Certification Program, and the beer selected as the best springtime brew will be professionally brewed and served at Steins, with proceeds supporting a charity of the brewer’s choice. Entrants must register on the Steins website by March 13. Visit steinsbeergarden.com for more details.

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Cupid takes aim: Pairing wine with dessert


Courtesy of CHristine Moore
Looking to impress your sweetheart on Valentine’s Day? Pair a Yalumba Antique Tawny Museum Reserve Dessert Wine with truffles.

When I imagine Cupid stringing his bow and taking aim at a soon-to-be-in-love couple, I envision a platter of some sweet concoction and a goblet of dessert wine beside him. Both seem to be the most fitting fuel for the winged master of amore as he goes about his happy business of sparking love.

Of course, I also imagine that pairing wine with dessert comes easily for Cupid, who knows a thing or two about passionate pairings. For us mere mortals, however, deciding on which wine to drink with dessert can be a bit more hit and miss. To get your aim right this Valentine’s Day, I’m offering some thoughts on dessert and wine pairing.

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What's sweet on the outside but tart when you bite?


Courtesy of Pooja Mottl
The sweet-and-sour flavor of kumquats complements a seasonal salad of winter greens.

Whether you’re buying them dangling pendulously from trees near Costco’s entrance or heaped in bags at San Francisco’s Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market, kumquats are dotting the region this month.

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Aging big beers develops complex flavors


Courtesy of Derek Wolfgram
Firestone Walker Brewing Co. in Paso Robles offers barrel-aged beers you can taste across multiple years’ vintages.

In recent years, increasing numbers of beer enthusiasts have been developing the patience to cellar high-alcohol beers for enjoyment months or even years later.

Great candidates for aging include barleywines, imperial stouts and Belgian dark strong or golden strong ales, all of which have enough alcohol and malt complexity to continue developing through the aging process. A beer’s hop character will fade relatively quickly as a beer ages, which is why India Pale Ales should always be consumed as fresh as possible and not cellared for a special occasion. But bigger beers can develop in interesting ways.

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Take a walk on the sour side: Beers offer a palate shock worth seeking


Photos courtesy of Derek Wolfgram and the Rare Barrel
Berkeley’s The Rare Barrel barrel-ages sour beers to create drinks like the Flanders-style All Systems Go which is aged in oak with Sightglass coffee beans.

One of the quickest ways to ignite a lively discussion among beer geeks is to bring up sour beers.

A growing number of craft beer drinkers enjoy these funky, tart, acidic concoctions, while others find them even more distasteful than weak mass-market lagers.

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A new burger for a new year: Start off right with a vegan kibbeh variant


Photos by Blanche Shaheen/ Special to the Town Crier
Avoid the mystery ingredients found in store-bought veggie burgers by mincing up a vegan version inspired by a Middle Eastern dish. The recipe can serve double duty as deep-fried croquettes or patties,.

Canola oil, corn oil and soy protein isolate are all heavily processed and genetically modified ingredients that often end up in store-bought veggie burgers. Other offenders include artificial flavors, variants of monosodium glutamate and chemicals like thiamine hydrochloride (hydro what?).

Put all these ingredients together and you could have the recipe for a “veggie” burger that could survive a nuclear holocaust. During this time of year, when people want to start off with fresh and healthful meals, making your own veggie burgers really isn’t that difficult. You can also store any leftovers in the freezer and enjoy the burgers all month long.

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12 glassfuls for Christmas


Photo Courtesy of Erin Gleeson
From an apple galette to Colorado whiskey to an old world wine, holiday treats do double duty as feast and gift.

Partridges in pear trees and all those lords a-leaping don’t really make it onto Christmas wish lists these days. The idea behind the song “The Twelve Days of Christmas” is phenomenally festive, though, and served as great inspiration for a list of 12 drink-related treats to get you happily through the holiday season.

In compiling my list, I had the blissful fortune to recruit help from local cookbook author and blogger Erin Gleeson and Laurie Lindrup, director of business development and senior assistant operations manager at Beltramo’s Wines and Spirits, for wine recommendations.

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Bake barazek cookies for cultural impact


Photos by Blanche Shaheen
Barazek cookies pair pistachios on their base and sesame on their crowns. A honey glaze holds everything in place.

Some cookies have the power to take you to distant lands with one bite. When I travel to other countries, I love to visit local bakeries, where I can experience the tastes, smells and traditions of that particular culture.

Usually on the last day of my trip, I like to buy a little box of sweets to take home with me – the last taste of a country, which I can share with family once I step off the plane. Middle Eastern sweet shops are filled with sensory experiences – baklava dripping with nuts and honey, shredded filo layers filled with custard or cheese, buttery semolina shortbreads and barazek.

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Giving thanks – and wine recommendations


Courtesy of Christine Moore
Try a Robert Mondavi 2013 Napa Valley Fumé Blanc with a selection of holiday appetizers.

I’m thankful for my family and my children’s limitless curiosity that insists I experience the world anew. I’m thankful for my husband’s laughter because it fills our home with playfulness. I’m thankful for the telephone because it allows me to speak with my mom on a daily basis and for the smallest of reasons.

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Add Middle Eastern zing to Thanksgiving with za'atar


Blanche ShaHeen/SPecial to the Town Crier
Za’atar, a Middle Eastern spice mix, adds zest to Thanksgiving dressing, and makes a tasty rub for chicken or turkey.

My late Aunt Bahia, who lived to be 95 years old, used to say, “Remember, Blanche, a spoon of za’atar a day will keep the doctor away.”

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Raw, bitter, slow – delight? A counter-intuitive food week

FOOD MandarinaBavaria fmt

The Town Crier's food writers explore food origins, cooking techniques and trends in local beer this week. Did you know that some Los Altos milk-lovers get their dairy straight (yes, raw!) from the cow?

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Fasoolya: A weeknight meal fit for fall


Courtesy of Blanche Shaheen
Fasoolya can be tailored to a family’s taste, using chicken or lamb to top any variety of grains or greens. Prepared the night before, it can stew all day while the family’s away.

Autumn is a frenetic time of year for me. With days spent working, writing, bill paying, preparing school lunches, cleaning, grocery shopping, doing laundry, volunteering at school and carpooling to soccer practice, ballet rehearsals, swimming and piano lessons, cooking takes a backseat. My pots and pans seem to give me attitude, like they’re saying, “Wanna piece of me?”

How do I squeeze in easy, healthful dinners without relying on processed food or takeout? The slow cooker, one of the best inventions ever (sorry, pots and pans).

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Local service celebrates the raw and fermented


Eliza Ridgeway/Town Crier
Raw milk’s rareness has made it a coveted commodity in much of the U.S. – in California, licensing has allowed production to increase.

Raw milk has become a precious – and sometimes illicit – commodity among American eaters drawn to less processed, more primal foods. It’s banned in some states or permitted only to those who own their own cows. Even in California, a bastion of alternative eating, only four dairies have received licenses to sell raw milk.

But local residents have unusual access these days, due to a service that picks up milk at two raw dairies each week and delivers to Los Altos and Mountain View, in addition to other Bay Area locations.

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