Wed08202014

News

Burglary bump in LAH alarms residents and Sheriff's Office

Los Altos Hills has recorded fewer burglaries than the national and state averages over the past decade, but this year the number of breaking-and-entering crimes has spiked.

Since July 1, the Santa Clara County Sheriff’s Office has recorded 14 resid...

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Schools

Community support pays dividends

Community support pays dividends


As a recent cover story in The New York Times Magazine revealed, getting low-income students into college is not enough to close the achievement/income gap. The percentage of low-income students entering college who actually earn a degree lags far ...

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Community

War veteran to visit D.C. memorial on Honor Flight

War veteran to visit D.C. memorial on Honor Flight


Ellie Van Houtte/Town Crier
Los Altos resident and World War II vet Earl Pampeyan is preparing for an Honor Flight trip to Washington, D.C., next month.

Los Altos resident Earl Pampeyan is scheduled to fly to Washington, D.C., next month to vis...

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Sports

Making a splash

Making a splash


Courtesy of Clarke Weatherspoon
Stanford Water Polo Club’s under-14 boys team earned the bronze medal at the Junior Olympics. Front row, from left: Corey Tanis, Larsen Weigle, Nathan Puentes, Walker Seymour, Alan Viollier and Jayden Kunwar. B...

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Comment

Whom can you trust?: Haugh About That?

Waving my pink poodle skirt with all the fervor of a matador preparing to tease a raging bull, I blinked my 20-year-old eyes and gave a come-hither look to indicate, “I’m ready!” Little did I know that the blind trust I had in this ...

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Special Sections

Getting right by eating right: PAMF doctor's book addresses South Asian health risks

Getting right by eating right: PAMF doctor's book addresses South Asian health risks


Ellie Van Houtte/Town Crier
Dr. Ronesh Sinha, a physician at Palo Alto Medical Foundation, promotes healthful living among the South Asian population. His new book, “The South Asian Health Solution,” includes nutritious recipes.

When you think o...

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Business

From Google to First Street: Massage therapist sets up studio in downtown Los Altos

From Google to First Street: Massage therapist sets up studio in downtown Los Altos


Ellie Van Houtte/Town Crier
Upuia Ahkiong is slated to open Kua Body Studios next month at 106 First St. Ahkiong is sharing space with Evolve Classical Pilates.

A massage therapist with ties to Google Inc. is slated to open a new – and shared...

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Books

"Jack London" chronicles author's adventurous life


Much has been written about American author Jack London, primarily known for his early-20th-century Western adventure novels, including the classics “White Fang” and “The Call of the Wild.”

In Earle Labor’s biography of the literary icon, “Jac...

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People

TIMOTHY WARREN WATSON (TIM)

TIMOTHY WARREN WATSON (TIM)

Born June 2, 1935, died peacefully on August 11, at home in Mountain View, surrounded by his family. He died of complications of Parkinson’s Disease after a courageous 15-year battle.

Tim was the beloved husband of 55 years to his college sweethea...

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Travel

Bergama bound: A visit to newest World Heritage site

Bergama bound: A visit to newest World Heritage site


Photo Eren GÖknar/ Special to the Town Crier
The amphitheater in Turkey’s ancient city of Pergamon, now known as Bergama, overlooks the Bakirçay River valley, left. The city’s ruins also include the Temple of Trajan.

It was 90 F during t...

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Stepping Out

TheatreWorks offers 'Spoonful' of drama beginning this week

TheatreWorks offers 'Spoonful' of drama beginning this week


Kevin Berne/Special to the Town Crier
Three strangers – “Chutes & Ladders” (Anthony J. Haney, left), Odessa (Zilah Mendoza, center) and “Orangutan” (Anna Ishida, right) – come together in an online support group in TheatreWorks’ regional premie...

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Spiritual Life

Spiritual Briefs

Meditation group meets at Foothills Congregational

A Weekly Meditation Practice group meets 7-8:15 a.m. Tuesdays at Foothills Congregational Church, 461 Orange Ave., Los Altos.

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Magazine

Festival features fun for everyone

Festival features fun for everyone


TOWN CRIER FILE PHOTO
The Los Altos Arts & Wine Festival boasts more than 375 craft and arts booths.

This weekend’s 35th annual Los Altos Arts & Wine Festival promises to be jam-packed with fun activities for just about everyone. The eve...

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Haiti offers elevated experience at Citadelle

TRAVEL HAITI2012 Citad fmt
Photos by Ellie Van Houtte/Town Crier
Perched on a hilltop 3,000 feet above sea level, the Citadelle Laferrière is among Haiti’s national treasures.

TRAVEL haitiphotos

Far above Haiti’s creviced island landscape, a magnificent architectural wonder balances atop a hill almost as if hovering in the heavens. The Citadelle Laferrière is a fortress so grand that it earns a spot on the UNESCO World Heritage site list.

My travel in Haiti primarily involved studying and documenting small cities near Fort-Liberté and coastal stretches of the northeast in 2012. But it was my time at the Citadelle that left me with a perspective on Haiti that dramatically contrasted with the post-2010 earthquake imagery seen by much of the world.

National treasure

Perched high above the fertile coastal hillsides lush with sugarcane plants and coffee trees, the Citadelle sits like a ship sailing away. But unlike a ship that gets lost at sea, this monument has endured as a proud symbol of Haiti’s independence since Haitian Army Gen. Henri Christophe directed its construction in the early 1800s to help defend the country from French resettlement.

Although weathered by nature and neglect, the Citadelle still offers glimpses of the Spanish and French influence that colors the contemporary look of Haiti. The Citadelle, perhaps the country’s greatest national treasure, remains a destination well worth the toil involved in reaching it.

There is only one way to reach the Citadelle, and those accustomed to the convenience of made-for-tourist attractions will either admire the monument from afar or embrace the undeveloped nature of the attraction with enthusiasm.

Even the journey by tap-tap (bus), from Cap-Haïtien – northern Haiti’s largest city – is a rocky ride, so difficult by Western standards that the major cruiseline that owns a private island 22 miles away cannot risk bringing passengers to the Citadelle for day trips. But that is due to change.

With support from the Haiti Ministry of Tourism, the World Bank and the Clinton Foundation, local roadways are undergoing renovations to improve accessibility. Although there are perils involved in exploiting national treasures – as proven with the Taj Mahal in India, which faces closure due to natural and tourist-induced erosion – preserving the Citadelle could provide much-needed economic stimulus for the Haitian economy.

Hilltop climb

A visitor’s journey to the Citadelle begins in the small town of Milot, where the Sans-Souci Palace beckons. First-time visitors may mistakenly believe that Christophe’s former residence is the final destination. Unlike the Citadelle, which survived the 1842 earthquake, the palace suffered damage, as evidenced by the cracks and rubble. Even so, the inviting formal staircase, tall arches and marble statues lure visitors into the inner terraces. Sans-Souci Palace may have a reputation as the “Versailles of the Caribbean,” but its scale and architecture pale in comparison to the mystery that awaits visitors uphill.

The route to the Citadelle officially begins at the palace, where a small ticket station offers admission for $5. Physically fit visitors equipped with water and walking sticks disembark for the 8-mile uphill climb from the palace. Many visitors opt to catch a ride to the end of the access road, where only a few miles of hiking remain.

By foot, visitors must navigate a narrow and steep meandering cobblestone pathway that hugs the hillside as it wends past colorful dwellings and affords striking views into green valleys.

As the higher altitude takes effect, legs may begin to fatigue, but the reward at the journey’s finish propels climbers upward. The final inclines of the ascent are the most exhausting yet exhilarating moments of the climb.

If you haven’t already succumbed to the services of a local touting a horse for hire, this is the point where you might hand over $12 for a creature comfort. Spotting the fort’s solid walls of rock rising above like a ship’s bow will make your heart race.

Vertical vistas

The massive walls that extend 130 feet high make visitors feel small. An estimated 20,000 slaves built the structure, which seems realistic when surveying the scale and complexity of the structure.

There is no formal path or tour through the fort. This is a particular luxury for historians, photographers or artists who enjoy viewing at their own pace and letting their imaginations run wild. They can poke into dark spaces, now overgrown with moss and plants, and envision them as they were in days when Christophe and 5,000 defenders occupied the Citadelle.

Entering through a giant wooden door with metal bolts, visitors step into a mazelike series of interior and exterior spaces, passing across cisterns and through dungeons and other storage rooms filled with cannons as if ready for battle.

A favorite lookout is positioned atop the building. There are no guardrails to protect tourists from the vertical drop. Proceed at your own risk – there is no safety net.

From 3,000 feet above sea level, you can take in the trail of tourists arriving and departing the Citadelle and admire the view of Haiti’s northern coast as it touches the Atlantic Ocean.

By late afternoon, clouds obscure the warm light of the sun and whispering winds make already dark corridors appear even eerier. The cool air against your back is a refreshing treat as you descend the dusty roads that lead back to the traffic jams of Cap-Haïtien.

TRAVEL Sidenotes

• Regular flights travel from Haiti’s capital, Port-au-Prince, to
 Cap-Haïtien for approximately $200 round-trip. During the
25-minute flight, the planes fly low, offering panoramic vistas of the
Haitian landscape and even the Citadelle on clear days. A word of
warning: Travel light, as luggage space is limited.
    • The best lodging in northern Haiti can be found in and around Cap-Haïtien. Hotel Mont Joli (hotelmontjoli.net) is a solid urban choice featuring a pool, restaurant and magnificent views of the city in all directions. For a more isolated beachside experience, consider Cormier Plage Resort (cormierhaiti.com).
    • In addition to indulging in the local freshly caught fish, sample the native Tasso et Banane Pézé – fried goat and plantains. For an extra kick of spice, enjoy the plantains with pickled vegetables.
    • For an interesting day trip, hire a car to visit the city of Fort-Liberté, northern Haiti’s administrative capital and home to much original French architecture. Although not as polished as some tourist destinations, Fort-Liberté boasts a seaside fort, the Cathedral of St. Joseph, Fort Dauphin and picturesque fishing boats.

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