Fri03062015

News

Council considers freezing First St. development

Council considers freezing First St. development


Megan V. Winslow/Town Crier
A pedestrian walks along First Street in downtown Los Altos last week. Future construction on the street could soon be barred by an emergency moratorium on development.

Further construction along First Street could...

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Schools

Santa Rita students put on Kranky Kids Radio Show

Santa Rita students put on Kranky Kids Radio Show


Traci Newell/ Town Crier
Neighborhood volunteer Lishka DeVoss, center, introduces members of Santa Rita School’s Kranky Kids Radio Club to their interviewee last week. The students star in the Kranky Kids Radio Show, which airs Fridays on KZSU.
...

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Community

Music for Minors partners with Harvard to expand efforts

Music for Minors partners with Harvard to expand efforts


Palmer

When the thriving Music for Minors began to outgrow its capacity, the local nonprofit organization made new friends.

Beginning in late February, Music for Minors – a Town Crier Holiday Fund recipient – partnered with Harvard Business Sch...

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Sports

Eagles make school history

Eagles make school history

Ellie Van Houtte/Town Crier
The Los Altos High School Eagles defeated Santa Clara High School Tuesday to advance to the Central Coast Section basketball finals Saturday.

The Eagles are headed where no Los Altos High boys basketball team has gone...

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Comment

Dangerous streets: A Piece of My Mind

I’m driving along El Monte Avenue between Foothill Expressway and Springer Road at approximately 6 p.m. on a midwinter evening. In keeping with the “village feeling” of our town, there are no sidewalks and no streetlights.

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Special Sections

Lions, lambs and Cab Franc for March

Lions, lambs and Cab Franc for March


Christine Moore/Special to the Town Crier
Oven fries, a slice of feta cheese and the bite of harissa mayonnaise make for a late-winter, early-spring dinner perfectly paired with Cabernet Franc.

I can’t help but wonder whether March will come in ...

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Business

Los Altos scientist named Inventor of the Year

Los Altos scientist named Inventor of the Year

Alicia Castro/Town Crier
Robert Showen, above, the Silicon Valley Intellectual Property Lawyers Association’s Inventor of the Year, began researching his ShotSpotter technology in his Los Altos home. Sensors are placed around a city, below, and fou...

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Books

French novel

French novel "Hunting and Gathering" offers character-driven suspense


Anna Gavalda is a well-known author in her native France, where she has published six books, most of which have met with considerable praise and commercial success. Her fourth novel, “Hunting and Gathering” (Riverhead Books, 2007), is filled ...

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People

JACK JOSEPH CRANE

JACK JOSEPH CRANE

Long time Los Altos resident, Jack Joseph Crane, loving husband and devoted father of two children, passed away peacefully at the Terraces in Los Altos, Saturday, February 21, 2015. He was 95 years of age. Jack was born on June 22, 1919. He is prec...

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Travel

Seoul of the city: Korean capital offers mix of old and new

Seoul of the city: Korean capital offers mix of old and new


Ramya Krishna/Special to the Town Crier
Seoul’s Cheonggyecheon public recreation space, above, features an elevated pedestrian bridge.

Seoul, South Korea, is a study in contrasts. Having grown quickly, the city is a mix of old and new.

Using...

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Stepping Out

TheatreWorks jumps into ‘Lake’

TheatreWorks jumps into ‘Lake’


Kevin Berne/Special to the Town Crier
Jason Bowen, from left, Adam Poss and Nilanjana Bose star in “The Lake Effect,” opening this weekend at the Lucie Stern Theatre in Palo Alto and running through March 29.

The TheatreWorks production ...

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Spiritual Life

Is your thought life sabotaging your spiritual journey?

My computer started having problems – there seemed to be some sort of malware running in the background. At first it was just annoying, then it began to slow down my computer, interfering with its basic operations. What is it doing? Why can...

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Magazine

Local events serve up family fun

Local events serve up family fun


Courtesy of Peninsula Youth Theatre
Peninsula Youth Theatre’s production of “Pecos Bill: A Tall Tale” is slated to open March 20 in Mountain View.

For families seeking a break from the daily routine, events abound this month and next in Los Alto...

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Haiti offers elevated experience at Citadelle

TRAVEL HAITI2012 Citad fmt
Photos by Ellie Van Houtte/Town Crier
Perched on a hilltop 3,000 feet above sea level, the Citadelle Laferrière is among Haiti’s national treasures.

TRAVEL haitiphotos

Far above Haiti’s creviced island landscape, a magnificent architectural wonder balances atop a hill almost as if hovering in the heavens. The Citadelle Laferrière is a fortress so grand that it earns a spot on the UNESCO World Heritage site list.

My travel in Haiti primarily involved studying and documenting small cities near Fort-Liberté and coastal stretches of the northeast in 2012. But it was my time at the Citadelle that left me with a perspective on Haiti that dramatically contrasted with the post-2010 earthquake imagery seen by much of the world.

National treasure

Perched high above the fertile coastal hillsides lush with sugarcane plants and coffee trees, the Citadelle sits like a ship sailing away. But unlike a ship that gets lost at sea, this monument has endured as a proud symbol of Haiti’s independence since Haitian Army Gen. Henri Christophe directed its construction in the early 1800s to help defend the country from French resettlement.

Although weathered by nature and neglect, the Citadelle still offers glimpses of the Spanish and French influence that colors the contemporary look of Haiti. The Citadelle, perhaps the country’s greatest national treasure, remains a destination well worth the toil involved in reaching it.

There is only one way to reach the Citadelle, and those accustomed to the convenience of made-for-tourist attractions will either admire the monument from afar or embrace the undeveloped nature of the attraction with enthusiasm.

Even the journey by tap-tap (bus), from Cap-Haïtien – northern Haiti’s largest city – is a rocky ride, so difficult by Western standards that the major cruiseline that owns a private island 22 miles away cannot risk bringing passengers to the Citadelle for day trips. But that is due to change.

With support from the Haiti Ministry of Tourism, the World Bank and the Clinton Foundation, local roadways are undergoing renovations to improve accessibility. Although there are perils involved in exploiting national treasures – as proven with the Taj Mahal in India, which faces closure due to natural and tourist-induced erosion – preserving the Citadelle could provide much-needed economic stimulus for the Haitian economy.

Hilltop climb

A visitor’s journey to the Citadelle begins in the small town of Milot, where the Sans-Souci Palace beckons. First-time visitors may mistakenly believe that Christophe’s former residence is the final destination. Unlike the Citadelle, which survived the 1842 earthquake, the palace suffered damage, as evidenced by the cracks and rubble. Even so, the inviting formal staircase, tall arches and marble statues lure visitors into the inner terraces. Sans-Souci Palace may have a reputation as the “Versailles of the Caribbean,” but its scale and architecture pale in comparison to the mystery that awaits visitors uphill.

The route to the Citadelle officially begins at the palace, where a small ticket station offers admission for $5. Physically fit visitors equipped with water and walking sticks disembark for the 8-mile uphill climb from the palace. Many visitors opt to catch a ride to the end of the access road, where only a few miles of hiking remain.

By foot, visitors must navigate a narrow and steep meandering cobblestone pathway that hugs the hillside as it wends past colorful dwellings and affords striking views into green valleys.

As the higher altitude takes effect, legs may begin to fatigue, but the reward at the journey’s finish propels climbers upward. The final inclines of the ascent are the most exhausting yet exhilarating moments of the climb.

If you haven’t already succumbed to the services of a local touting a horse for hire, this is the point where you might hand over $12 for a creature comfort. Spotting the fort’s solid walls of rock rising above like a ship’s bow will make your heart race.

Vertical vistas

The massive walls that extend 130 feet high make visitors feel small. An estimated 20,000 slaves built the structure, which seems realistic when surveying the scale and complexity of the structure.

There is no formal path or tour through the fort. This is a particular luxury for historians, photographers or artists who enjoy viewing at their own pace and letting their imaginations run wild. They can poke into dark spaces, now overgrown with moss and plants, and envision them as they were in days when Christophe and 5,000 defenders occupied the Citadelle.

Entering through a giant wooden door with metal bolts, visitors step into a mazelike series of interior and exterior spaces, passing across cisterns and through dungeons and other storage rooms filled with cannons as if ready for battle.

A favorite lookout is positioned atop the building. There are no guardrails to protect tourists from the vertical drop. Proceed at your own risk – there is no safety net.

From 3,000 feet above sea level, you can take in the trail of tourists arriving and departing the Citadelle and admire the view of Haiti’s northern coast as it touches the Atlantic Ocean.

By late afternoon, clouds obscure the warm light of the sun and whispering winds make already dark corridors appear even eerier. The cool air against your back is a refreshing treat as you descend the dusty roads that lead back to the traffic jams of Cap-Haïtien.

TRAVEL Sidenotes

• Regular flights travel from Haiti’s capital, Port-au-Prince, to
 Cap-Haïtien for approximately $200 round-trip. During the
25-minute flight, the planes fly low, offering panoramic vistas of the
Haitian landscape and even the Citadelle on clear days. A word of
warning: Travel light, as luggage space is limited.
    • The best lodging in northern Haiti can be found in and around Cap-Haïtien. Hotel Mont Joli (hotelmontjoli.net) is a solid urban choice featuring a pool, restaurant and magnificent views of the city in all directions. For a more isolated beachside experience, consider Cormier Plage Resort (cormierhaiti.com).
    • In addition to indulging in the local freshly caught fish, sample the native Tasso et Banane Pézé – fried goat and plantains. For an extra kick of spice, enjoy the plantains with pickled vegetables.
    • For an interesting day trip, hire a car to visit the city of Fort-Liberté, northern Haiti’s administrative capital and home to much original French architecture. Although not as polished as some tourist destinations, Fort-Liberté boasts a seaside fort, the Cathedral of St. Joseph, Fort Dauphin and picturesque fishing boats.

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