By Maureen Jones
courtesy of maureen Jones The stone fortresses of the Swiss Alps inspired romantic poets such as Lord Byron. |
For all the joys of an alpine summer - lake resorts, snowcapped mountains, edelweiss, chocolate and trains that run on time - visit Switzerland.
My parents rented a house in the Alps for a month every summer, and then we returned for the Christmas holidays for two weeks of skiing. Two of my favorite places are Montreux and Saas-Fee.
Montreux is one of the best bases from which to explore the heights and sights of Switzerland, and its international summer jazz festival is in its 40th year. The festival is held on the shores of Lake Geneva in the Lavaux, a region rich in natural beauty and culture. French-speaking Montreux is packed with sophisticated Belle Epoque architecture and chic style. The cosmopolitan town is also home to one of the most beautiful castles, the 13th-century rock-fortress, Chateau de Chillon, immortalized by 19th-century poet Lord Byron. While sailing on Lake Geneva, a violent storm forced Byron to seek refuge in the castle.
Entranced by its darkly romantic atmosphere and dank cellar jail, he was inspired to write an epic gothic poem, “The Prisoner of Chillon.”
Montreux and the neighboring town of Vevey were the favorite haunts of artists such as Noel Coward, Graham Greene and Charlie Chaplin, who were attracted by the area’s easygoing charm. It’s a great place to wind down, sightsee and shop. If you want to see and sample local produce, take the Chocolate Train to the Nestle factory, the Wine Express to the Lavaux vineyards or the Cheese Train to Gruyere and snake through tunnels and mountain passes, past tumbling streams and roaring waterfalls, thick forests and open meadows dotted with pristine Heidi chalets. Everything is squeaky clean and looks like a scene from a model railway layout.
Everything runs like clockwork in Switzerland. Buses and trains depart and arrive on time, and the disabled are encouraged to travel everywhere. Discounted Swiss Travel Passes are a boon, and near Montreux, Lake Geneva (Lake Leman to the Swiss) provides a perfect venue for boat rides.
Saas-Fee glacier sends water into the lovely village of the same name and then down the alpine valleys to the river Rhone and on to Lake Geneva and Montreux, 50 miles to the northwest. Saas-Fee, known as the Pearl of the Alps, lies hidden in a bowl formed by 13 peaks, including Switzerland’s highest mountain, the Dom. The area is literally breathtaking, as the air is thin and it takes a couple of days to acclimatize. As late as 1950, you couldn’t reach this village by road. Today, wonderful restaurants serve rosti, a traditional Swiss potato dish, over an open fire to accordion music.
The area is also home to the largest wine-growing region of Switzerland, and you must try the fruity white Fendant or the rich, red Dole. Saas has an interesting museum, and I love the cheese fondue offered in the village. Walking in the area is spectacular, with edelweiss, gentians, alpine roses and harebells blooming in profusion in the mountains. Take a cable car to the top of Mount Hannig and make your own way down the pathways. In you’re in a hurry, hire a scooter at the top and hurtle down the 5-mile zigzag track that serves as a sledge run in the winter - fun, but not for the faint-hearted.
Maureen Jones is president of Los Altos-based All Horizons Travel. For more information, call 941-5810.

















