Serving traditional Irish food and drink for St. Patrick's Day

By Nick Casey, Special to the Town Crier

With St. Patrick’s Day just around the corner, one tradition seems to be changing.

“It’s just not cool to drink Guinness any more,” said James Maltby, owner of Maltby’s Restaurant and Tavern in Los Altos.

A native of Devonshire, England, Maltby was surprised at this recent change in taste that he sees mainly among young people. But he has responded to the times: This year, Guinness Irish Stout will be nixed, a draft Sierra Nevada to take its place.

Other traditions will remain the same. Green beer will be on tap for lunch and dinner on March 17, with customers welcome to choose between Smithwick’s Ale brewed by Guinness, Double Diamond English Ale, Spaten Pilsner and a dozen other varieties imported and domestic.

Corned beef and cabbage - the traditional St. Patrick’s Day feast - will be served.

“Last year we ordered 150 pounds of corned beef - we sold out. So this year we’re ordering 200 pounds of it,” said Maltby.

Maltby said he is not a big fan of boiled meats. “But you’ve got to have it once a year,” he said. “It’s a bit like Thanksgiving dinner. After all, turkey’s not that flavorful, certainly not gourmet.”

Nevertheless, Maltby has seen his share of attempts to dress up both meats for the gourmand. This year, he said, food networks are airing segments presenting corned beef and cabbage with fancy, uncharacteristic plating and garnishes.

“In the end, let’s face it: It is simple, honest, Irish food. People get excited about it this time of year,” he said.

For March 17, Maltby recommends reservations.

Maltby and his wife, Katy, opened the restaurant on Fourth Street nine years ago after James had spent 12 years as a manager at the British Banker’s Club in Menlo Park.

“We were hidden here,” said Maltby’s, “and Fourth Street is only a block long. It took two or three years for word of mouth to get out. But we had faith in our product.”

And their faith led to expansion. First came the gamble of acquiring an adjoining space. Then came the addition of an expansive bar. But both choices paid off, and Maltby gained a distinct cadre of regulars.

One such customer arrived during the interview.

“I know it’s after hours, but my daughter is sick. Can I get a soup?” he said.

Maltby was happy to oblige.

“We’re a local neighborhood tavern and family restaurant,” he said. “St. Patrick’s Day or not, the last thing we want is to be perceived as is another British pub.”

And Maltby’s has certainly risen above the average pub. While the expansive menu offers fish ‘n’ chips and English banger sausages, Maltby has also tailored it with crab cakes and cajun Caesar salad. The dinner menu contains mussel stew and rib-eye steak, giving it the distinct fare of an American grille.

Maltby’s won’t be the only restaurant in town celebrating St. Patrick’s Day. Marie Callender’s Restaurant, 4710 El Camino Real, is planning a corned beef and cabbage dinner as well, with the addition of reuben sandwiches. Original Pancake House, 420 S. San Antonio Road, is making plans to serve themed pancakes.

Maltby pointed to an old standby on his menu.

“Why not try our split pea soup that day?” he said.

Irish?

“No, but it’s green,” said Maltby.

Maltby’s Tavern & Restaurant, 101 Plaza North, is near the corner of Fourth and State streets. Lunch is served 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; dinner 5:30-

8: 30 p.m. For more information, call 917-8777 or visit www.maltbys.com.