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2005 » Issue 48, Published on Wednesday, November 30, 2005 » Books
By Maureen Jones

I recently accompanied the head of the Northern Territory Tourism Commission and the vice presidents of Tourism Australia and Qantas Airways to the Tiwi Islands, 50 miles off the coast of Darwin, Australia. The islands are home to a rarely visited aboriginal tribe known for its distinctive carvings, paintings and Pukamani burial poles, used as a gesture of respect for the dead.

Australia’s Northern Territory covers 20 percent of the country’s land mass yet claims less than 1 percent of its total population. Only 150,000 people live in the Northern Territory, 50,000 of them Aborigines. The “Top End” of Australia has two distinct seasons - wet and dry. October through April routinely brings 100-degree heat and oppressive humidity. Because of the territory’s proximity to the equator, monsoons often produce 30 inches of rain. May through September is the dry season, when temperatures hover in the low 90s and waters are rife with dangerous box jellyfish and saltwater crocodiles. Citizens of Darwin manage to deal with the extremes: Their per capita beer intake is higher than the rest of the country.

Once you become adjusted to the heat and humidity, visit the Kakadu National Park, Litchfield and Katharine Gorge to ensure lifetime memories.

The Northern Territory is vast, and hitting the highlights will make you feel as if you’ve covered a lot of ground.

From Darwin we flew directly to the Tiwi Islands, where a daylong tour offers plenty of insight into the rich culture. I was particularly impressed with the quality of the art, fabric and wood carvings.

Prices were much lower than on the mainland, and the process of print screening was fascinating to observe. The craftsmanship was beautiful and tempting, but my husband still complains about the six-foot didgeridoo (aboriginal trumpet) I brought home a few years ago.

In addition to the outstanding handiwork of the islanders, I also enjoyed their footwork: The highlight of my visit was seeing the native children dance. We shared afternoon “billy” tea, an Australian staple, with the village community after removing our hats and waving a smoking branch over our heads to banish any evil spirits that might have accompanied us.

We hiked through a forest, wherein the guide pointed out shrubs the Aborigines use in their medicines, and ate alongside a billabong.

It is important to wear good walking shoes, a hat, sunscreen, insect repellent and sunglasses when touring the Tiwi Islands. You should also carry a water bottle to combat the heat. Guided tours operate Monday through Friday from March through November.

For travelers interested in aboriginal culture, a visit to the Tiwi Islands is one of the best ways to see the aboriginal people in an indigenous setting.

Maureen Jones is president of Los Altos-based All Horizons Travel, 160 Main St. For more information, visit www.allhorizonstvl.com or call 941-5810.


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