By Julie Cummer

Fuller

Living and working where a warm day is -30 F, where the oxygen level is incredibly thin and where the air is so dry the humidity only averages 2 percent is not for the faint of heart. But Emma Fuller, who spent three “summers” at Antarctica’s Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, told a Morning Forum audience Oct. 18 why so many “Polies” choose to return to the unforgiving environment.

Fuller was first hired as a dishwasher in the most remote kitchen on earth. Three austral summer seasons later (October to February), Fuller was promoted to supervisor of South Pole Station logistics, a department responsible for food, water, heat, air and equipment for the 260 summer workers and scientists.

Since 1956, Americans have studied Antarctica and its interactions with the rest of the planet in the areas of biomedicine, earth sciences, climate, astrophysics and astronomy.

After extensive interviews and stringent physical and dental exams, summer employees are met in New Zealand with cold-weather clothing and flown to the station in a military cargo plane.

The station, according to Fuller, is self-sufficient. Water is produced by melting wet snow, found at least 400 feet below the surface. Electricity and heat are supplied by burning jet fuel. Gray water and septic waste is buried; all other waste is recycled and/or shipped out on planes. There is a post office - workers receive mail once a month. A greenhouse supplies a bit of fresh produce. Much of the medical care is performed through telemedicine communication with experts around the world. Once a week, weather permitting, a plane comes with supplies.

Outside work and construction take place in the summer, during its perpetual sun. Work takes place 24 hours a day over multiple shifts. The spirit of innovation reigns supreme: if something breaks, it must be fixed. If something doesn’t work, an ad hoc solution must be found.

Because of the isolation and extreme environmental challenges, a spirit of community is quickly built and humor prevails, Fuller said. Holidays are always celebrated. One eagerly awaited event is the annual New Year’s “race around the world” - a 2 km. loop that takes runners through all 24 time zones. Entertainment includes croquet, sledding, bocce ball, soccer, horseshoes, snow carving and Sumo wrestling while wearing bubble wrap.

Disadvantages included the ever-present fear of fire, two-minute showers limited to two times per week, water consumption (enough must be drunk to keep hydrated and to avoid lung burn) and constant sunscreen and lotion application.

Outsiders can travel to the South Pole Station - but the cost is $25,000 for a one-hour stay without access to any buildings except the gift shop.

When the station closes in mid-February, the Antarctic summer workers are flown back to New Zealand to re-enter the real world. “Polies” find that their leg tendons hurt when they start walking on cement again. Everyday smells and sounds are overwhelming at first, Fuller said, and they can no longer consume 5,000 calories a day and not gain an ounce.

Fuller is writing her first book, a travel/adventure memoir based on her experiences living and working at the South Pole.

Morning Forum is a members-only lecture series held at the United Methodist Church of Los Altos. To get on a waiting list, write: Morning Forum, P.O. Box 274, Los Altos 94023-0274.