By Steve Hicks

My previous article dealt mostly with poor cork quality and the musty, wet-cardboard smelling wines that result. The column elicited more feedback than usual.

The majority thought it was not a large problem and that if a wine was corked it occurred mostly in restaurants where the wine may have been mistreated.

Last week at a wine dinner, with the wines provided by Alexia Moore Wine Marketing, three of the six bottles did not have cork closures. One of the remaining three should have been disqualified as it was a Port! Two had plastic closures and the third a Stelvin screw cap.

The 2000 Mason Sauvignon Blanc is a world-class, high-scoring wine from Napa. It had a colorful green plastic closure that was color-coordinated with the foil and label. This aromatic beauty was recently judged second out of 143 Sauvignons Blancs.

Randall Grahm’s Bonny Doon Il Circo, “La Violetta,” was made from the Uva di Troia varietal. It was produced and bottled in Italy. The plastic closure was appropriately violet in color and complemented the tattooed circus lady of the night on the label. It seems every region in Italy has a varietal all its own, and Uva di Troia from Puglia is so different that you really need to try it. Nose of violets, easy drinking and for $12 quite a wonderful red wine bargain.

The Downey Family Vineyards recently released a 1999 “Fly By Night” $35 Zinfandel from Oakville. Half were finished with cork and the rest with a Stelvin screw cap. Parker loves this wine, and so do I. It has concentrated fruit that opens with a little time and yet has a subtle elegance that many Zins lack. The Stelvin closure is slipped over a bottle made with grooves, and the cap is pressure-sealed on the glass. I remain dubious over whether it can breathe like a cork. Perhaps all the oxygen needed is in the wine and the neck of the bottle. I believe the cap will be a good closure for many white varietals that don’t need a lot of aging. I guess only time will tell.

A Huia Vineyards Brut Sparkler from the Marlborough area in New Zealand tasted very French. Once the story was told, the reason was evident. Two Down Under winemakers met while training in Champagne. They returned to New Zealand, married and are now making fine wine and beautiful music. This Brut is made in the classic Krug barrel fermentation style. The Cuvee is yeasty, creamy, with a long, clean finish and sells for $30.

The only thing unusual about the 2000 Kellar Sonoma Coast Chardonnay is it is the only wine the winery makes. Ted Lemon of Littorai fame produced this rich, complex treat. Selling for $25, it is an inexpensive way to enjoy Lemon’s expertise with coastal grapes.

It is not every day that a wine is recalled, so it is worth noting when one is. Flowers sent a notice and a recipe for what you could do with their 1999 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. Tell them how many bottles you have left and they will send you a check, and happy cooking! It is rare, but this wine went through a secondary fermentation in the bottle and was cloudy and spritzy. This reputable, quality winery deserves a “thank you” for their thoughtfulness.

Steve Hicks is currently a wine advisor and consultant. He is a partner in a winery and has owned a wine shop. He is active in local, national and international food and wine societies. You can reach him at: shicksvine@aol.com.